| A recent visitor, now a well known journalist, was | | | | is still there. Vistors are welcomed and spoonfuls of |
| astonished to find high quality restaurants, suite type | | | | candied fruit accompany strong black coffee or small |
| accommodation and a cafe bar culture in the town of | | | | glasses of raki, the local spirit distilled from grapes, |
| Agios Nikolaos in Eastern Crete. His memories of the | | | | when you enter a house. It is frowned upon, in local |
| town in the 1970's were of streets packed with 18-30 | | | | culture, to offer to pay for hospitality such as this and |
| tourists, bar crawls and cheap studio rooms. | | | | any breach of etiquette is dealt with firmly, usually by |
| "Desperate youngsters would even pay to sleep on | | | | the man of the house. It is said that you can never |
| the roof of a hotel in those days, just to be part of the | | | | starve in Crete because the people will not allow |
| "Ag Nik" scene for a week", he said. " The difference | | | | anyone to go hungry, preferring to share their own |
| in the place is almost unbelievable". Chic cafe bars | | | | portion than to see someone go without. Perhaps |
| have now replaced the cheap booze with skinny lattes | | | | there is a lesson to be learned for the more |
| and fredo capuccinos and the burger joints have given | | | | "advanced" cultures there? The older Cretan people |
| way to some of the finest cuisine in the eastern | | | | have changed little in the last 50 years, but the |
| Mediterranean. One local restauranteur, Manolis, | | | | younger generation, fuelled by access to television, |
| described the fare as "traditional Cretan dishes with a | | | | magazines and a consumer led society, are, in many |
| contemporary twist, a mixture of mezes and nouvelle | | | | ways, becoming assimilated into the western view of |
| cuisine". The success of his operation, housed in a | | | | the world. Most teenagers now have new cars or |
| neo-classical building, proves that the visiting clientelle | | | | motorcycles, where just 15 years ago, they were lucky |
| have changed dramatically and are demanding far | | | | if they were allowed to borrow their father's 20 year |
| more than simple taverna food. | | | | old pick-up truck for a visit to town. Brides now |
| Elounda, just 10Km to the north of Agios Nikolaos, has | | | | demand a newly built house, fitted with double glazing, |
| recently achieved renewed fame due to theworldwide | | | | dishwasher, microwave oven and central heating, |
| bestseller "The Island", by Victoria Hislop. Despite new | | | | where there mothers were content to inherit the family |
| developments and luxury hotels on the shoreline | | | | home, complete with in-laws. The young people are |
| opposite Spinalonga island, former Venetian stronghold | | | | better educated, many going on to Universities in other |
| and last leper colony in Europe, the small village of | | | | countries to complete their studies. It is difficult to |
| Plaka still retains its charm. Fresh fish tavernas now line | | | | persuade a 25 year old Doctor, who has graduated in |
| the small area which was used, in more unhappy | | | | London or New York, to return to a village where the |
| times, to supply the lepers with food and medical | | | | average age of the population is over 80 and the |
| supplies. The main resort of Elounda, correctly called | | | | wage is less than half of that in other countries. |
| Schisma, nestles around the old harbour where | | | | Tourism still accounts for a considerable proportion of |
| fishermen still repair their nets and assess the day's | | | | income for the island. Some of the youngergeneration |
| catch. Back towards Agios Nikolaos is the luxury hotel | | | | are persuading their parents and grandparents to look |
| area, containing the Elounda Beach, Elounda Bay, | | | | to the future, although it is difficult to explain that the |
| Elounda Mare, Elounda Peninsular, Elounda Gulf and | | | | needs of the tourists have changed since the early |
| Porto Elounda. Some of the most exclusive hotels in | | | | days when a bed was all that was required. With |
| the world are found along this small strip of coastline. | | | | some 70% of incoming tourism being generated |
| Private yachts and helicopters regularly bring in guests | | | | through internet bookings, those who have embraced |
| from the world of music and theatre, political leaders, | | | | the new technology and adapted to changing tourism |
| business moguls, sportsmen and other celebrities. | | | | patterns are reaping the rewards. It is a process of |
| The recent interest in Ago-tourism and Eco-tourism | | | | evolution which will leave some Cretans behind. Large |
| has also seen a movement towards the inland areas | | | | complexes of all inclusive hotels are destroying the |
| of the island. Producing fine organic wines and, officially, | | | | trade for local tavernas and bars which have |
| the best olive oil in the world, Crete has benefited from | | | | traditionally paid their staff on commission. Less casual |
| European Union investment to develop an awareness | | | | staff arrive every year to fill unskilled positions, and |
| of the traditional crafts and produce of the island. | | | | with increasing fuel, social insurance and taxation costs, |
| Towns such as Archanes, just 20 minutes from the | | | | the small coffee shops and traditional tavernas are |
| main airport at Heraklion, have invested heavily in | | | | finding it hard going. How much longer the old style |
| refurbishing traditional cottages and creating a "green" | | | | kafeneions and souvlaki shops will be able to survive is |
| tourism option, away from the coast and beaches that | | | | anyone's guess, but the resilience of the owners might |
| have always been the target of large tour perators. | | | | just pull them through. |
| Small independent wineries are building a reputation | | | | So what will these former backpackers find when |
| amongst wine merchants across the world, whilst the | | | | they get to Crete? The returning visitor will certainly |
| larger co-operatives and producers are experimenting | | | | notice some dramatic changes, but many of the core |
| with new grape varieties to secure their future and | | | | values and attitudes which were so fundamental in |
| expand into a wider market. New roads now link the | | | | former times still remain in the hearts of the Cretan |
| main east-west National highway with the south of the | | | | people. They are proud, generous, stubborn and |
| island, opening up not only export routes but also giving | | | | fiercely independent. They can be off-hand, |
| access to the Libyan Sea coast, with tamarisk lined | | | | condescending, kind, caring and rude, almost |
| beaches and coves. There you will find Matala, where | | | | simultaneously. That is what makes them Cretan. And |
| the hippies lived in caves cut out of the rock and about | | | | it is these people that make Crete what it is. The |
| which Joni Mitchell wrote the iconic "Carey". | | | | Great Island. |
| Despite the changes, the Cretan concept of "Filoxenia" | | | | |