Backpackers and Billionaires

It used to be that backpacking trips to Fiji involved ashortly after the famous mutiny on the Bounty. Even
bus ride from Nadi to Suva, then a ferry totoday, most villages are without electricity or running
somewhere like Ovalau, Savusavu, Taveuni orwater, and opportunities for economic development
Kadavu. No more. These days young budget travelersare very limited. The Yasawans have felt neglected
are lining up to go to the Yasawa Islands, a chain of 16by politicians in the distant capital, envious onlookers as
large volcanic islands and dozens of smaller onesmini-cruise ships and yachts carried wealthy foreigners
roughly 35 km off the west coast of Viti Levu.along their shores.
The dazzling white beaches, clear warm waters,In May 2000, rabble-rouser George Speight and
colorful coral reefs, and sunny dry climate make theassorted thugs seized the Parliament building in Suva,
Yasawa Group an ideal tourist destination, but untilturning Fiji on its head. Speight's pro-indigenous rhetoric
recently a visit involved a rough sea voyage fromstruck a chord in the Yasawas. Villagers from Nacula
Lautoka in an unsafe village boat-or an expensiveIsland staged a mini-coup on Turtle Island, locking
seaplane flight from Nadi. Blue Lagoon Cruises hasEvanson in one of his 14 luxurious bungalows as village
been plying the Yasawas since the 1950s, butyouths rode wildly around Nanuya Levu on Evanson's
passengers aboard those upscale vessels sleep ingolf carts.
staterooms and local residents receive few benefitsWhen the excitement died down, plaited mats were
from their presence.spread and kava roots were pounded, and over many
Until the 1987 Rabuka coups in Suva, it was the policybowls of grog, Evanson and the villagers came to an
of the Fiji government that the Yasawas were closedunderstanding.
to land-based tourism. The long years ofRather than killing the golden goose, Evanson
military-backed government brought few changes toconvinced the Nacula people that they'd be better off
the Yasawas, although Australian investors wereopening resorts of their own and allowing him to
allowed to construct the deluxe Yasawa Island Resortcontinue running his business in peace.
in 1991 and a couple of village-operated backpackerEvanson offered interest-free construction loans and
camps sprang up on Wayasewa and Waya. Sincepromotional support, and the Nacula Tikina Tourism
the early 1980s, local families have operated threeAssociation was born. The association's Web site
small low-budget resorts on Tavewa Island, thankscurrently describes a dozen locally-operated resorts
largely to Tavewa's status as a freehold island beyondaround the Blue Lagoon in the central Yasawas,
the authority of the Fijian chiefs. For decades localincluding the three existing properties on Tavewa. All
church leaders have portrayed tourism as a corruptingresort operators must conform to a strict code of
outside influence to be kept at arms length from villageconduct intended to preserve the environment and
life.guarantee acceptable levels of service. Though
It would be hard to imagine anything more removedprimitive compared to the luxurious Mamanuca resorts
from real Fijian life than Turtle Island Resort on Nanuyaoff Nadi, the Yasawa backpacker camps provide
Levu Island, Fiji's ultimate hideaway for thebasic food and accommodations at a relatively low
US$1,500-a-night crowd. Nanuya Levu has beenprice.
freehold land since 1868, and in 1972 Richard EvansonThe mass influx of backpackers only began in 2002
used US$300,000 he earned in the Southern Californiawhen Awesome Adventures, a subsidiary of New
cable television business to buy the island.Zealand-owned South Sea Cruises, launched a fast
Evanson's Turtle Island Resort became the prototypecatamaran service up and down the chain. You can
of Fiji's current crop of boutique island resorts, hostingnow depart Nadi's Denarau Marina on the Yasawa
notables like Hollywood stars and millionaires. BrookeFlyer any morning at 9:15 a.m. and be at the resort of
Shields stayed here during the 1980 filming of theyour choice in time for lunch. As many as 150
escapist classic The Blue Lagoon.backpackers do this every day and the
A self-styled environmentalist, Evanson has plantedvillage-operated resorts on Kuata, Wayasewa, Waya,
thousands of trees on his island, and has convertedNaviti, Tavewa, Nacula, Nanuya Lailai, and Matacawa
the mangrove forests into tourist attractions byLevu are booming.
cleverly creating boardwalks. The resort's food isReservations can be made upon arrival at Nadi Airport
grown in organic gardens and power is generatedthrough any one of a dozen 24-hour travel agencies
using solar and wind energy. Each year a group ofright in the airport terminal itself. All of these offices sell
volunteer California eye specialists visits Turtle Islandcatamaran tickets with a bus transfer to the harbor
Resort to perform eye surgery on needy villagers orincluded. Deluxe lodgings and gourmet food should not
to equip them with donated prescription glasses.be expected at any of the Yasawa resorts-yet the
Yet for most Yasawans, life has changed little sincefriendly people, spectacular natural beauty, and low
1789 when Captain William Bligh and loyal members ofprices make most travelers overlook these
his crew paddled past the group in an open boatinconveniences.